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I am huge fan of this design approach. Bought the video, studied and applied. What I did not like was shaping (weight removal) after attached. So I pre-shape fully. But how to clamp with that angled edge? I made 5 simple caul blocks that compensated for the angled bevel. Cover with blue tape to minimize glue stick. Works great.

I also use the cutout piece covered in blue tape on the other side to even out the pressure. Not shown in this picture, I use reversed kerfed lining below the bevel block to add additional bonding strength.

Here's a finished picture showing the added kerfed lining. Why do this? Maybe over kill. But I like the surety of it. Btw, everything u see that isn't dark wood is Spanish Cedar. I used mahogany last time for the bevel block. But Kent et al, recommends basswood. Lighter. Makes sense. But, I like Spanish Cedar better.

Btw, this is not a mod on the design, but a mod on the process. Kent's original design is awesome.

Mike it looks good. It was a real pain shaping the bevel backing block after it was glued on. Just curious, what are you getting from the kerfed lining under the block that you are not getting from the block itself.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I like to laminate the block to reduce runout. Then I just carve it in place.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

Most likely, nothing. I'm probably overly concerned about the part of the block that has 1/4" contact height. I'll think about it some more. The main point here is how to pre-shape the inside, and still be able to apply significant clamping pressure.